Wednesday, April 27, 2011

Frittata...And My Ode to the Cast Iron Pan

 I was recently gifted with a cast iron pan from a friend, and I could hardly wait to break it in. There is something extra epicurean about cast iron pans. I have had a wide range of experiences with them, ranging from the simple to the gourmet. I remember visiting my grandmother as a child and how she would make homemade cornbread in it, would set the pan on the counter, cut it in to wedges, and serve it right out of the pan. I remember also having to "wash" the pan, and thought two things: 1-Why is this thing so damn heavy. 2-Why am I not allowed to use soap? She definitely followed the old wives' tale of never using soap on cast iron. I remembered being scolded for letting it soak, and telling me that I ruined the seasoning. Seasoning? Like salt and pepper? I didn't know that the light layer of oil, filled in the nooks of the pan, giving it a natural non-stick surface..no teflon, pam spray, nada.

My mother inherited her father's cast iron dutch oven. This thing looks straight out of Little House on the Prairie. She carried on his tradition of making bolognese sauce, chili, and chicken and dumplings. Something was magic about that pot (and my mom's cooking) that I could never accomplish in an aluminum or a non-stick.

Then when I started cooking in restaurants, I found that the cast iron pan became an extension of me. Stacks of them lined the wall above the range. They transitioned from the range, to the oven, to the salamander, and to the chef to plate. Blazing hot and able to keep up with the pace, cast iron is a precise cooking tool, dependable-maintaining exact control of cooking temperature. Their heat retention qualities allow for even cooking temperatures without hot spots. I have perfectly seared scallops and meat, made sauces a la minute, baked crab cakes, and even allowed mussels to cook in wine and butter until opened, all in cast iron. I have scars from cast iron pans.

One of the first things in my new pan was a frittata, a crustless quiche of sorts, filled with whatever you heart desires. I had properly seasoned my new pan before, because eggs glued to a pan is a giant mess. We decided this year to do a Easter brunch instead of dinner this year, and I knew my mom would miss the ham, so I added that with my favorite-spinach, and topped with Seaside Cheddar-a cheddar that has a  creamy mouth feel with protein crystals (like sea salt) crunch to it.

Ham, Spinach, and Cheddar Frittata (serves 4-6)

9 eggs, cracked and beaten until frothy, seasoned with black pepper to taste
1T oil
1c thick cut ham, small diced
2c fresh spinach, roughly chopped
1 1/2c grated good quality, sharp cheddar cheese



Turn the oven broiler on high. Heat oil in an oven safe pan on medium high heat. Add the ham and spinach. Cook until spinach is wilted and ham is lightly browned. Add eggs and stir with a spatula. Cook for 4-5 minutes until the eggs begin to set on the bottom. Sprinkle cheese evenly on top and put in the oven. Cook for another 3-4 minutes, the eggs should raise slightly and the cheese is melted and bubbly. Cut into 6  or 8 wedges and serve.

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